Caring for skin and tissues is much more than a matter of aesthetics. It is about cultivating visible health, deep regeneration, and radiant well-being. Across the ages and cultures, oils, waters, gestures, and baths have formed a universal language: that of restorative touch and conscious connection to the body .
1. Skin and tissues: the living border
The skin is the body's largest organ, covering an average of 1.8 m². It provides barrier, respiration, and sensory communication functions.
1.1 Cell composition and dynamics
- Epidermis (≈ 0.1 to 1 mm): made up of keratinocytes, melanocytes and immune cells. Keratinocytes renew themselves approximately every 28 days in adults (faster in children, slower with age) [1]. This process can be supported by gentle exfoliation, fruit acids (AHAs), and good hydration.
- Dermis (≈ 1 to 4 mm): rich in collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid, essential for firmness. Massages, mechanical stimulation and certain polyphenols (e.g. hydroxytyrosol from olives) promote their production [2].
- Hypodermis : reserve of fats and mesenchymal stem cells. Its vitality depends on overall metabolism (diet, physical activity, circulation).
💡 Cosmetics act mainly on the epidermis and the surface of the dermis , while diet, supplementation and movement influence the deeper layers.
1.2 Fascia: invisible connecting tissues
Fascia are collagen membranes that envelop muscles, bones, and organs. Long neglected, they are now recognized as a sensory and mechanical organ :
- Structural role : supports skin posture and mobility.
- Richly innervated : contribute to proprioception and overall well-being.
- Water exchange : facilitates fluid circulation and tissue regeneration.
- Aesthetic link : flexible fascia → firmer skin and more harmonious features.
👉 Fascia reacts to:
- Self-massages (rollers, balls, gua sha).
- Internal and external hydration.
- Regenerative movement (yoga, stretching).
- Conscious touch (therapeutic massage, fascia therapy).
💡 Cell renewal : With age, the regeneration cycle lengthens (up to 40–60 days after age 50), leading to a duller complexion and slower recovery [1].
2. Melanin: the skin's unique signature
Melanin determines the natural color of skin, eyes, and hair. It acts as a biological shield against UV rays, but its balance varies depending on skin type.
- Harmonious production protects against photoaging.
- An excess or an imbalance promotes pigment spots.
- Genetic diversity means that each skin is literally unique in its reaction to the sun, to aggressions and to aging [3].
3. Precious oils and waters: nourishment for the skin
World traditions have identified plant and essential oils as treasures for healing. Modern science now confirms their antioxidant, restorative, and protective powers.
3.1 Precious oils – the world’s top 5
- Argan oil – derived from the kernels of the Moroccan argan tree, it is rich in tocopherols (vitamin E) and unsaturated fatty acids. It effectively protects against lipid oxidation of the skin and strengthens the skin barrier. Traditionally used by Berber women, it illustrates the link between cultural heritage and modern science [4].
- Prickly pear seed oil – considered one of the rarest and most precious oils in the world. Its exceptional concentration of vitamin E and sterols makes it a powerful cell regenerator. It improves skin elasticity, reduces wrinkles and helps fade scars [5].
- Rosehip oil – extracted from the seeds of the wild rose (Rosa moschata), it is rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids (omega-3 and omega-6). It promotes healing, stimulates collagen production and visibly improves skin texture. It is an ally for marked or weakened skin [6].
- Moringa oil – nicknamed “miracle oil” in Africa and India, it contains a high proportion of oleic acid and polyphenols. It neutralizes free radicals, regulates sebum and intensely nourishes without clogging pores. Its oxidative stability also makes it an excellent preservative oil for cosmetic preparations [7].
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Marula Oil – sourced from Southern Africa, light and fast-absorbing. It provides oleic acid, antioxidants and flavonoids that strengthen the skin's natural protection. Ideal for dehydrated or sensitive skin, it nourishes without weighing it down and leaves a silky feel [8].
3.2 Inert vs. Inflammatory Oils
- Well tolerated : extra virgin olive oil (protective polyphenols), camelina oil (rich in omega-3 ALA), perilla oil (fatty acid balance), MCT oil (easily metabolized into energy).
- To limit : oils rich in oxidized omega-6 (sunflower, corn, soy) → promote skin inflammation [9].
3.3 Internal oils and beauty from within
Essential fatty acids (EPA/DHA from marine omega-3s, ALA from vegetable oils) nourish the skin, hair and nails from within. Proper supplementation improves skin hydration, reduces dryness and promotes the flexibility of cell membranes [10].
3.4 Floral waters and hydrosols
- Rose water (Rosa damascena) – used for centuries in the Middle East and Asia. It contains flavonoids and tannins with antioxidant and soothing properties. It helps regulate skin pH, calm irritations, and restore radiance to the complexion [11].
- Orange blossom water (Citrus aurantium amara) – rich in aromatic molecules such as linalool and nerol. It is known for its regenerating and softening effect on the skin, while having a slightly relaxing effect due to its fragrance. It is particularly suitable for sensitive and dry skin [12].
- Witch hazel water (Hamamelis virginiana) – concentrated in tannins and flavonoids, it has an astringent and vasoconstrictor action. It tightens pores, soothes redness and supports skin microcirculation. It is a classic in purifying treatments [133].
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Lavender water (Lavandula angustifolia) – with compounds like linalool and linalyl acetate, it is healing, calming, and mildly antiseptic. It is traditionally used to soothe irritated skin, promote healing of small wounds, and balance combination skin [14].
These “living waters” complement the action of the oils and provide a lighter touch.
4. Ancestral techniques and practices
Healing rituals have always combined hands, warmth, breathing, and medicinal plants . These age-old traditions are now finding scientific validation.
- Abhyanga (Ayurvedic massage) : self-massage with warm oil → improves circulation, nourishes the fascia, reduces stress.
- Gua sha and jade roller (China) : lymphatic drainage, radiance of the complexion, release of facial tension.
- Facial yoga : gentle exercises that tone muscles and stimulate microcirculation.
- Hammam, banya, onsen : heat, steam and thermal contrasts → opening of pores, elimination of toxins, immune activation.
- Scalp care : oils and massages to stimulate microcirculation and prevent hair loss.
- Inspired modern practices : cryotherapy, ice baths, fascial massages with vibrating tools.
👉 These approaches demonstrate that conscious touch acts as much on biology (circulation, collagen) as on psychology (calming, security, anchoring).
5. Masks, exfoliation and baths
The skin breathes and renews itself thanks to surface care.
- Masks : clays, honey, turmeric, activated charcoal → cleanse, nourish and soothe as needed.
- Gentle exfoliation : enzymatic or mechanical scrubs → accelerate cell renewal.
- Microdermabrasion / traditional exfoliation : promotes oxygenation and radiance.
- Steam baths, hammam : open pores, detoxify and prepare the skin for oils.
- Poultices : formerly used to calm, drain or revitalize → today revisited in the form of targeted therapeutic masks.
6. Glycation and skin aging
Skin aging isn't just about visible wrinkles: it's deeply rooted in the biochemistry of tissues. One of the quietest but most destructive processes is glycation . Unlike oxidation (damage caused by free radicals), glycation is a slow, irreversible reaction where excess sugars attach to skin proteins, including collagen and elastin . The result: stiff, yellowish fibers that lose their natural elasticity.
What happens in the skin
- Skin proteins (collagen, elastin, keratin) undergo non-enzymatic binding with sugars → formation of advanced glycation end products (AGEs).
- These AGEs induce fiber hardening, reduce tissue flexibility, and disrupt their ability to regenerate [15].
- Glycation also weakens skin microcirculation, reducing the supply of oxygen and essential nutrients.
- It amplifies chronic low-grade inflammation , accentuating the thinning and fragility of the skin [16].
Aggravating factors
- Excess blood glucose (diet rich in fast sugars, repeated blood sugar spikes).
- High temperature cooking (grilled, fried, caramelized foods → rich in exogenous AGEs).
- Tobacco and pollution (promote the production of free radicals which interact with AGEs).
- Natural aging: after 35–40 years, the capacity for enzymatic repair decreases sharply.
How to slow down glycation?
- Low glycemic index nutrition : Focus on complex carbohydrates, rich in fiber, to reduce insulin spikes.
- Protective polyphenols : catechins from green tea, resveratrol, curcumin and hydroxytyrosol from olives have demonstrated their ability to limit the formation of AGEs [17].
- Amino acids and collagen : a quality protein intake provides the building blocks necessary to counteract degradation.
- Topical care : certain antioxidant formulas enriched with carnosine (dipeptide) have shown a direct “anti-glycation” effect at the cutaneous level [17].
💡 Key takeaway: Glycation acts as a "slow caramelization" of the skin, making its fibers rigid and fragile. By regulating sugar and strengthening antioxidant defenses, we can preserve skin's youthfulness and elasticity.
7. Recommended reading
1. Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice — Leslie Baumann (2019)
A definitive textbook in cosmetic dermatology that connects skin science with clinical practice. Baumann details the mechanisms of skin aging (oxidation, glycation, inflammaging), active ingredients (retinoids, antioxidants, peptides), and modern interventions (lasers, peels, fillers).
2. Ayurvedic Beauty Care — Ananda Mahony (2008)
A practical guide exploring ancient Indian rituals centered on abhyanga, medicinal oils, and the use of plants (neem, turmeric, amla). The book shows how Ayurveda connects the skin, digestion, and dosha balance.
3. Skin Microbiome Handbook — Marie Drago (2021)
A book that highlights the skin microbiome as a pillar of skin health. It explains how probiotics, prebiotics, and postbiotics nourish the protective bacterial balance, reducing inflammation and supporting the skin barrier.
4. The Wrinkle Cure —Nicholas Perricone (2000)
A bestseller that popularized the idea that silent inflammation is one of the main drivers of skin aging. Perricone emphasizes an anti-inflammatory diet rich in antioxidants, omega-3s, and polyphenols, as well as the use of nutraceuticals like DMAE and alpha-lipoic acid.
5. Glow Worthy — Katie Silcox (2023)
A book that modernizes the Ayurvedic and spiritual approach to beauty. Silcox emphasizes sacred rituals (meditation, self-massage, breathing), the importance of the female cycle, and body acceptance, placing beauty within a holistic vision of well-being.
8. References
- Farage MA et al. Characteristics of the Aging Skin. Adv Wound Care. 2013.
- Quan T, Fisher GJ. Role of age-associated alterations of the dermis in photoaging. Dermatoendocrinol. 2015.
- Brenner M, Hearing VJ. The protective role of melanin. Pigment Cell Melanoma Res. 2008.
- Boucetta K et al. Argan oil and skin health. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2016.
- Charrouf Z, Guillaume D. Ethnobotany and chemistry of Argania spinosa. Phytochemistry. 1999.
- Campos PM et al. Rose hip oil: skin regeneration. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2018.
- Lalas S et al. Nutritional profile of Moringa oleifera oil. J Food Sci. 2012.
- Mariod A et al. Marula oil: composition and properties. J Agric Food Chem. 2005.
- Simopoulos AP. Omega-6/omega-3 fatty acids. Biomed Pharmacother. 2002.
- Pilkington SM et al. Omega-3 fatty acids and skin health. Exp Dermatol. 2021.
- Boskabady MH et al. Pharmacological aspects of Rosa damascena. Iran J Basic Med Sci. 2011.
- Viuda-Martos M et al. Citrus aurantium chemistry and properties. Food Chem. 2010.
- Patel S. Hamamelis virginiana in dermatology. Phytother Res. 2013.
- Cavanagh HMA, Wilkinson JM. Biological activities of lavender oil. Phytother Res. 2002.
- Gkogkolou P, Böhm M. Advanced glycation end products: Key players in skin aging. Dermatoendocrinol. 2012.
- Pageon H. Reaction of glycation and human skin aging. Pathol Biol. 2010.
- Ramasamy R et al. Role of AGEs and RAGE in skin pathology. Glycobiology. 2014.
9. FAQ
Why is the sun often blamed for skin aging?
Because UV rays induce oxidative damage, collagen degradation, and hyperpigmentation, it is the main factor in extrinsic aging.
Is glycation reversible?
No. Once formed, AGEs are irreversible. But their formation can be slowed and their effects offset by a healthy lifestyle.
Are oils enough to prevent aging?
They nourish and protect, but must be combined with a suitable diet, restful sleep and sun protection.
Are fascia really connected to the skin?
Yes. Fascia transmits tension and elasticity. Their relaxation or rigidity directly influences skin tone and facial features .